independent Journalist from South Asia. Writes about gender, health, social justice, human rights, culture, environment. Fetisov Journalism winner 2022. Won grants from IWMF, Pulitzer & Dart center
India and Pakistan’s Water Politics Is Starting to Boil
Climate stress is rewriting the region’s rules of water sharing.
CHENAB VALLEY, Jammu and Kashmir—Shama Begum, wearing a traditional shalwar kameez and a pink scarf draped over her head, sits in her kitchen in Dungduro village, her back pressed against a cracked wall. Now in her late 40s, she grew up in Sewarbatti, not far from Kishtwar district, about a 155-mile journey by car from the city of Jammu.
Her whole life has revolved around the Chenab River. Her family looked after the springs tha...
Kashmir’s Lotus Stems Rise Again
Neighbors noticed. Farmers from nearby villages waded into Dar’s plot to see the revived stems for themselves. Dar shared his methods openly. By 2023, at least 15 households across three villages had restored their own lake patches, pooling labor, tools and harvests. What began as an individual effort turned into a small, cooperative movement, farmer-to-farmer, without formal funding or oversight.
The idea did not stop at open water. Elsewhere in the region, farmers dealing with a different c...
Dirty Air Threatens India’s Global Power
How New Delhi’s pollution has become a more fundamental crisis.
On a grey November morning in New Delhi, school administrators issued a familiar set of emergency orders: Playgrounds were closed, outdoor activities were canceled, and physical education classes were moved indoors. The reasoning had nothing to do with rain or cold. The air itself was too hazardous for children to breathe.
The announcements were delivered calmly, procedurally, with a seasonal rhythm. In the capital of the world’s...
The Women Carrying Water—and the World
Dispatch
The complicated life of women struggling with climate change—and cultural change—in Kashmir’s mountains.
PEER KI GALI, Jammu and Kashmir—It was a breezy, sunny noon at Peer Ki Gali, a mountain pass in the Pir Panjal range of the Himalayas, connecting the Poonch and Shopian districts of Jammu and Kashmir. As the sun and clouds played hide and seek, 20-year-old Asima Chaudhary, a Gujjar-Bakarwal herder, a nomadic community known for rearing sheep and goats across the mountains, watched...
Inside the Mud-Walled High-Rise That Cools Itself
In the middle of a concrete tower block, Jain has carved out a subtle revolution. Her apartment challenges the assumption that eco-friendly living belongs only to villages or luxury retreats. Instead, it shows how practices passed down the centuries can find urgent new expression in the most unlikely places: A middle-class high-rise on the edge of Delhi.
Jain’s inspiration came from Van Bhoj, a mud-house in Faridabad that was built in the 1990s on the site of a former stone quarry using tradi...
No route home: Climate change threatens Kashmir’s nomadic traditions
The morning sun had barely risen over the Pir Panjal mountain range in the Lower Himalayas, but the air already carried an unnatural weight. To its north-east, near the Indian-administered region of Jammu and Kashmir’s largest city, Srinagar, lies Astanmarg, a higher altitude pasture whose cooler air once drew local communities to bring their livestock grazing during the warmer months.
But in mid-May 2025, the temperature was unusually high in the early mornings. Seventy-year-old Rahim Poswal...
India’s Biggest Problem Is Its Own Backyard
The Indian government’s global ambitions are undermined by regional uprisings from Bangladesh to Nepal.
DIBYANGSHU SARKAR / AFP)
NEW DELHI—Back-to-back student-led uprisings in Bangladesh and Nepal have toppled governments there, signaling a generational shift in South Asian politics. From Colombo to Dhaka to Kathmandu, Generation Z is emerging as a disruptive force, challenging corruption, dynastic elites, and stagnant economies.
The scale and speed of these social movements have surprised e...
In the Line of Fire: How Women in Kashmir Navigate War, Memory and Survival
Just 10 minutes before Kalgi, a village in Uri, was hit by a shell after tensions escalated between India and Pakistan during Operation Sindoor, Zahida Bano had managed to escape her family home with her 16-day-old baby. Her home is just 10 km east of the Line of Control and it was 2 am.
Along with her family of 32, Zahida sought refuge in a bunker they had built in their backyard. Measuring 10×8 feet, it was the only bunker in the village. It took them more than a year and their life’s savin...
Kashmir’s Politicians Don’t Speak Kashmiri
The next generation of Kashmiri leaders is entering politics without fluency in the local language.
SAJJAD HUSSAIN/AFP via Getty Images
It was a sunny mid-morning in South Kashmir, the kind of heat that slows everything down. Beneath the wide shade of a chinar tree, a group of young boys had gathered, their laughter ringing out as they huddled over a mobile phone. An elderly man walking past shook his head and muttered, “Today’s generation, always laughing at themselves.” Still clutching his ...
Indian women learn how to rebuild their lives after being trafficked
When he was growing up, Bikash Das heard whispers from time to time about girls vanishing from his Indian town, Basirhat. After a while, people stopped asking what had happened to them.
“It became something you didn’t talk about,” Mr. Das says.
It wasn’t until two decades ago, when he went away to college and began volunteering with a local nonprofit in Kolkata, that he started to connect the dots behind the disappearances. He learned that many girls who go missing in his flood-prone region a...
Victimized twice over in the Sundarbans
A warming planet is creating a new pipeline for exploitation – human trafficking – turning natural calamities into human tragedies.
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Climate refugees from Bangladesh face a political storm in India
Politics
Undocumented Bangladeshi climate migrants in India lack legal protections and face rising anti-immigrant rhetoric and crackdowns, all amplified by the ruling BJP government and Hindu nationalists
A 22-YEAR-OLD from Satkhira district in southwest Bangladesh, bordering the Indian state of West Bengal, shared the story of how she and her family had ended up in India some two years ago. Back in Bangladesh, she recalled, they lived on just BDT 200 a day – just over USD 2 at the time – the...
Lessons for a Warming World From Kashmir’s Cooling Caves
On a quiet June morning in Dudran, a remote village in the Indian-administered state of Jammu and Kashmir, the stillness is broken only by the rustle of the breeze, the gurgle of mountain streams, and the lively chirping of birds. Amid this calm, Mohammad Aamir walks steadily, balancing a deaag, a large metal vessel, brimming with fresh milk. He is headed toward the village’s traditional cooling cave, locally known as a dodh daaer or dodh khot, a centuries-old, stone-lined chamber fed by icy ...
Kashmiris leverage social media to revive a language on the brink of extinction
Touqeer Ashraf and his younger brother, Tasaduq, are using a smartphone to make a short video of almond trees. They capture the smallest details, including the contrast between the blossoms’ white and light-pink petals, and how the branches dance in the gentle breeze.
Touqeer Ashraf narrates the segment in fluent Kashmiri, noting the significance of almond orchards for the Indian-administered Kashmir Valley, the stages of growth for almond trees, and the nutritional and economical value of al...